Madrid Neighborhoods: A Day in Chamberí

Chamberí: “One of the most madrileños of the barrios of Madrid”

Chamberí is a quintessential castizo neighborhood, and is great for those who want to enjoy the authentic way of life in Madrid. The neighborhood is full of traditional, small shops and and typical tapas restaurants where locals gather, but at the same time is very central and with all modern amenities nearby. While some parts of the neighborhood are quite posh, especially in the part bordering Salamanca, the rest of Chamberi is more affordable, and popular with young people.

Where is Chamberí?

Map of Chamberí, denoted by the red scattered line

Location: The Plaza de Chamberí is 2.5 kilometers from Sol, the central point of Madrid. It takes about 20 minutes via Metro from Sol to Iglesia on Line 1, 27 minutes taking the number 3 bus. From Islas Filipinas (Line 7) it takes about 26 minutes to get to Sol. The neighborhood is located north of the center of Madrid.

A day in Chamberí

We started the day at Café Comercial, one of the oldest cafés in Madrid founded in 1887. It’s also a popular spot for breakfast, where you can have a bocadillo (a simple sandwich made on a baguette), as well as espresso prepared in various ways. Among them cafe con leche (with milk), cortado (with a little milk), cappucino, or bombon (with sweetended condensed milk). Café Comercial has a history among the literary crowd, especially during the Post-Civil War Period. There is still a special corner in the café called El Rincón de don Antonio (Antonio’s corner) which is in homage to the great Spanish writer Antonio Machado. Current Café Comercial regular poets are Ana Rosetti and Arturo Pérez-Reverte. Nowadays, the place also offers free WiFi.

Plenty of activity in Plaza Chamberi one sunny Friday morning.

Next we took a stroll through the Plaza de Chamberí, at the heart of the neighborhood. With a playground and lots of outdoor space to sit with friends, it’s a popular meeting-place.

For some grocery shopping, we headed to Mercado de Chamberí, one of Madrid’s traditional neighborhood markets that was founded in 1943. There you can find a wide variety of high-quality products – from fruits and vegetables to an outpost of the famous Horno de San Onofre bakery. There’s a bit of everytihng in this market – even a gym, called Maná, with a swimming pool on the first floor!

Chamberi is also home to the primary center of Jewish life in the Madrid Community. Founded in 1917, the Comunidad Judía de Madrid offers cultural, religious, and youth program. Within the center is Madrid’s main synagogue, Bet Kneset Bet Yaacov, which offers Sephardic Orthodox services. For Rosh Hashanah, Ashkenazi services are also offered.

Scene from “Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown.”

Next we passed by Almagro 38 – an address that might ring a bell for fans of Pedro Almodóvar, the famous Spanish film director. The building was featured in the classic 1988 film, Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown. Maybe this photo will refresh your memory.

We were getting hungry, so we stopped for a quick bite at the Tierra Burrito Bar. This is the original location of Tierra, a restaurant clearly inspired by the American Chipotle chain that is so popular that it now has several locations across the city. There you can find large groups of American expats, as well as an expansive beer selection, with imports from Mexico, Germany and the States. Go with a group of friends to enjoy a pitcher of margaritas. They have recently added brown rice to their options to go with their famous guacamole. If you’re daring, be sure to pour lots of chipotle sauce on top of your burrito.

For some family fun, we headed down to the old Chamberí Metro station, which was closed in the 1960s, and is now a museum run by the Madrid metro, called Andén 0. There visitors can go back in time and see what it was like to ride the Madrid metro in the past. There is a documentary that explains the history of the Metro and then you can go down into the station. We visited on a weekday, but on the weekend it can get crowded!

The Museo Joaquín Sorolla is dedicated to to the Valencian artist of the same name. His widow donated all of her assets to the Spanish government so that a museum in her husband’s memory could be established. The museum is in his old house and workshop with not only works by Sorolla himself, but with other pieces that Sorolla owned. The museum’s patio is undoubtedly its most distinctive feature with delightful fountains and tiles.

The Instituto Internacional de España is home to several study abroad programs for US universities including Syracuse and Boston University. In addition, the Instituto offers American English courses, an excellent library where one can become a member, and a large number of cultural programs, including a recent visit by writer Amy Tan. The Instituto and the US Embassy recently signed and agreement to create an American Space which allow for people in Madrid interested in the United States to come together. Be sure to enjoy the garden in warm weather and get a piece of tortilla de patata in the cafeteria!

After so much activity, we decided to relax at Bar Miguel Ángel (Calle Miguel Ángel, 6), known for its tinto de verano (summer wine). It’s a great place to sit on a terrace to have a drink with friends after work (or play!). It is one of the classic bars of the area.

We decided to end the day with some shopping at NAC, which has multiple locations in Madrid, including two in Chamberí. It is known as one of the multi-brand boutiques of excellence in Madrid. Ranging from affordable designer looks to more expensive brands such as Stuart Weitzman shoes, NAC is a great place to go when you need something special or to be on trend walking through the streets of Madrid.

What Residents Love About Chamberí

“Chamberí is the neighborhood of my dreams. It’s full of life, extremely walkable, and a place where I can get to just about anywhere in the rest of the city comfortably. While it isn’t as hipster as Malasaña or as pijo (posh) as Salamanca, in Chamberí there’s a perfect balance. There’s a reason why they call Chamberí the más madrileño de todos los barrios madrileños.” – American English teacher, 2014